The
men's garments of 1607 Jamestowne Island actually pre-date Phase One of 17c
costume and probably are the most familiar. (Women did not come to Jamestowne
until later.) In 1607, the men came ashore in Elizabethan clothing, the familiar
garb worn by courtiers such as Sir Walter Raleigh. However, it was not long
before these Elizabethan fashions were replaced by what have been labeled,
"Jacobean" (after King James I) style, Phase One. It was a new reign,
and fashion for men called for a high standing collar, baggy trunkhose (baggy,
padded, short trousers) laced to long, embroidered stockings of very bright
colors, fitted doublet (upper/torso half of the outfit), and roses on the shoes
to hide the ties.
Ladies' costumes were quite elaborate in that they were cut from
hand-embroidered fabric, the skirt usually one color and the jacket another
bright hue. Ruffs were smaller, and farthingales were, "out".
Men
of this period wore a falling linen collar edged with lace over a jerkin or
jacket that came down to mid-hip. The sleeves of the jerkin were full and
open-cut showing the sleeve of the shirt, so as not to interfere with the use of
the sword. It should be noted here that during this period, almost all men
carried swords, whether in military or civilian dress. A man's clothes had
to be designed with that thought in mind. Trousers narrowed to self bands just
below the knees and over the tops of hose. These bands were held in place by
wide ribbons, usually fringed on the ends, called, "Venetians". The
Cavalier wore a broad brimmed hat with the brim often tacked up on the left side
over an extended plume. This on top of a head of long curls. Again, all clothing
in extremely bright colors. Gloves were gauntlets.
The Cavalier's lady wore a gown fitted with a tight bodice over a very
full skirt. The neck opening was summer-cut or very wide and often featured an
enormous lace collar that matched perfectly the cuffs on the full-length puffed
sleeves. Her shoes were low-heeled and, again, tied with ribbons. Each season,
she changed her outer wrap according to the temperature. In wet weather, she
wore wooden clogs to protect her shoes from water and mud. Her hair was worn
shoulder length in tightly curled ringlets at the sides and coiled at the back.
Usually, she carried a fan while indoors and a parasol while out-of-doors.
Gentlemen's
fashions were nothing short of elegant and showed the great influence of the
French court on the classes in England. The most prominent feature was the
periwig or peruke, a very long, wide-bottomed wig with heavy curls. The men who
wore these wigs cut short their own hair and sometimes shaved their heads. When
not wearing the periwig, the gentleman wore an elaborate linen house cap. His
periwig was kept on a head form on the dressing table. Wigs had to be sent out
often to be rid of nits. Over the periwig, was worn a large hat, something akin
to a tricorn, the brim filled with plumes. Our gentleman sported a wide lace bow
at the neck, a long elaborately embroidered coat that came down almost to the
knees, trousers something like the plus fours or knickers of two generations
ago, silk hose that met the bottoms of the knickers, and mid-heeled shoes with
bows at the tongues. Often the heels, usually wooden and chunky, were a
different color from the rest of the shoe.
"The ladies", not to be outdone in this display of elegance,
bedecked themselves in the finest brocades both winter and summer. To these
frocks they attached much lace, feather plumes, etc. Hair was long and piled as
high as possible on top of the head. Ornaments of flowers, birds and
butterflies, and fruits were pinned to the hairdos. Over this high hairdo, a
lace mantilla for windy days.